I always find Deanston to be a distillery with a distinctive character (current Master Blender Brendan McCarron identifies it as waxiness, I normally find a lot of ginger biscuits and honey in most Deanstons) that nevertheless remains a ‘chameleon malt’ of sorts, able to take all sorts of different maturations and finishes. This one has been finished in Pinot Noir casks – according to a whiskybase review of a tasting at the distillery, they were confirmed to be ex-Champagne casks, Pinot Noir of course being one of the three grape varieties used in making Champagne. Normally I would approach wine-matured or finished whisky with trepidation, but this was first tasted blind so there were no such preconceptions.

Nose: There’s a lot of that distinctive Deanston honey, with a cereal note and creamy vanilla. The wine has stayed in the background, and has brought light orchard fruit. Ripe red apples complete the very nicely composed profile.

Palate: The wine is slightly more forward here, with a bit of tannic sweetness, but other than that it’s quite discreet again. Honey, vanilla, some wood spice, ripe berries and nectarines. Also a bakery note that feels very Deanston indeed – freshly baked buns. It’s sweeter and less fruity than on the nose, but again, it works very well.

Finish: Medium, with a creamy sweetness and a bit of spice.

Comments: This is a perfect example of distillate and active wood working in perfect harmony. The Pinot Noir Casks have added an element of acidity and tannic fruitiness without ever coming close to overwhelming that distinctive Deanston spirit.

Score: 86/100

• 85-89
• Deanston
• Whisky by score