Deanston 13 (Distilled 2007, 65%, Signatory Cask Strength Collection 2020)

For a self-proclaimed Deanston fan, I haven’t reviewed any spectacular examples on this blog so far. Time to change that. This Deanston was matured for 13 years in a first-fill sherry butt, and bottled at an eye-watering 65% ABV. I first tried it in December 2020 in a tasting by the Blind Tasting Consortium. It was the overall winner of the night, not just for me but for most people taking part (see this link for more details by Brian on his blog). I saved enough to try on two other occasions in order to form a more objective opinion – it took me almost two years to publish these tasting notes, but better late than never!

Nose: Big-bodied and quite spectacularly sherried: figs, black coffee, a hint of leaves on a forest bed, stewed berries, strawberry jam.

Palate: The arrival is thick, as you’d expect from that ABV, but it’s not aggressive. There’s a fresh fruit core under the sherry – peaches, apples, blood oranges. Cinnamon and wood varnish too. But of course the main notes are from the sherry cask – again we’re on ripe figs, stewed fruit and an umami-like earthy note.

Finish: Dark coffee, drying spice and nuts. Beautiful.

Comments: This is quite simply one of the best sherried whiskies I have tried, on a par with the old Glendronach 15 and the Glenfarclas Family Casks I’ve been lucky enough to sample. I certainly regret not being a bottle immediately after the tasting!

Score: 90/100

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